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LIVING IN JAPAN – AND WHY IT ISN'T AS WEIRD AS PEOPLE THINK (OK, IT IS A BIT WEIRD)

23/7/2015

30 Comments

 
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Reader feature 
by JUSTIN EGLI

Ah, Japan. A magical land of fairies and robots and Nintendo flavoured chocolate and Pikachu's used panties sold in vending machines. 


For decades, Japan has been portrayed by the western media as a surreal playground: a cross between Disneyland, a bowl of ramen and a big bag of speed. The truth is, once you've lived here for a while, Japan starts to feel normal – it's the rest if the world that seems weird. In many respects Japan is more conservative than a lot of countries around the world. 

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The salarymen all dress the same, people are still afraid to say what they really think, and NO ONE speaks on public transport. The trains are silent. And you know what? You get used to it. 

It's got to the stage now that when I hear a bunch of people talking and laughing on the train I do a heavy sigh and tut. Those BASTARDS! Where are their MANNERS? My god... what has happened to me?

SAILOR MOON
“So what made you want to come to Japan?” 

“Well, I watched Sailor Moon as a child and I loved it and dressed up as all the characters and always wanted to come to Japan so I could, you know, actually BE IN Sailor Moon.” <Interviewer backs away silently and leaves room>

Japan is chock-full of oddball gaijin (the Japanese term for foreigners) who come to the country solely to live out their otaku wet dreams. 

They have to pay the rent somehow, and so the majority teach English. The end result is that Japanese school kids gaze upon these otaku overlords and perceive them to be a true representation of western society. An old gaijin boss of mine wore a Tweetie Pie tie to work. He was the actual manager of a company. Says it all really.

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I myself came to Japan for slightly more boring reasons: my dad lived here when he was 22, and so his tales must have rubbed off on me as a kid. I also had a penpal from Saitama prefecture when I was 11. 

I'll also openly admit that after I watched Akira for the first time I was blown away and that was bound to have had an influence. So maybe I'm no better than the otaku after all. Right now, I'm taking a break from Tokyo after living there for three years. I'm doing a bit of travelling and then I'll most likely go back next year. It's a very comfortable place to live, and despite Tokyo not being the utter madhouse many believe it to be, I reckon daily life in this country is as interesting as you'll find anywhere in the world.

Japanese arcades are fun. It's legal to drink in public in Japan so you can go to the konbini (convenience store) and load up on cheap chuhai (fruity alcoholic drinks that you would be labelled as a girl for drinking in any other country but it's OK to here, hurrah). There are ashtrays moulded onto the arcade stick and the whole place reeks of smoke. So you sit down at Tekken 5 with a can of booze and a cigarette and it's brilliant until some Japanese guy sits down at the machine opposite and puts in money. “Here comes a new Challenger!” Oh for fuck sake. Within 30 seconds you are destroyed by some thirteen-year old Tekken fanatic leaving you sitting there just drinking booze. 


Oh well.

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ARCADES
Most arcades are four floors. On the ground floor there are the UFO catcher machines – those ones where you try and grab stuff with the shitty three-pronged arm. Prizes include Doraemon soft toys or if you are playing in Akihabara, a figurine with abnormal breasts. 

Also on the bottom floor are the music related machines – where you get to beat the shit out of taiko drums and watch in horror (amazement) as a drunk Japanese salaryman attempts to play Dance Dance Revolution. 

The purika machines are usually in the corner somewhere and there are now signs telling you that you are not allowed near them as a guy unless you have a girl with you. Basically these are the photobooth machines where you can dress up and take pictures of yourself and draw all over the photos. They are huge in Japan (and Korea) but over the years there have been an increasing number of anoraks perving on the girls, hence the new signs. 

About ten years ago the photos you took were pretty normal, but with the increased popularity in wanting to look like an anime version of Donatella Versace, the machines now offer the option to smooth your skin, increase the size of your eyes and shave off any fat. The resulting image makes girls look like cartoon characters and guys look hideously deranged. 

The horseracing arcade machines are upstairs. This is where the real action is: old men made of cigarettes sitting about drinking One Cup sake and dribbling over themselves. 

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TOKYO GAME SHOW
Which brings me to Tokyo Game Show. 

“Man, I'd love to visit Tokyo Game Show one day!” says every person on internet ever. Really? You queue outside for two hours in 30-degree heat then once you get inside the hall you queue to join another queue to join another queue to play a beta version of a game for three minutes. Trust me, the reality isn't as good as it seems. 

The best part of these events is the cosplay area where you get to marvel at the weirdos that have spent the best part of a month constructing an outfit so they look like Barrett from FFVII but with tissue boxes stuck to their arm for a gun. I never did see anyone dressed up as Barry from the first Resident Evil. Sad face.

Akihabara is still the Mecca for many people who see pictures of Tokyo from abroad – the electronics district full of manga, maid cafes and sinister sex-cartoon stores. Yet when you arrive at Akihabara station you realise it's just a station like anywhere else in Tokyo, and for some this might be a bit of a let down. You don't just leave the station and fall head-first into streets of fairy dust and glitter; you have to walk about to find the stores

Admittedly, some of them are very good. I'm not hardcore into anime and stuff myself, but a wander around stores such as Mandarake is good fun to show you the vast amount of stuff people are prepared to part with their money for. There are some old Godzilla style figures that sell for thousands of pounds, and DVDs that my mum couldn't even BEGIN to comprehend even exist. I do of course mean hentai. 

Hentai artists must lead a bit of a weird life, drawing dicks and tits day in, day out, for a living. I often wonder if their parents know what it is they do for a job. “So what is it that you do for a living, son?” 

Oh you know... a bit of this, a bit of that... AND DRAWING GIANT TENTACLED MONSTERS HAVING SEX WITH GIRLS.

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BIG THINGS
Some things are as big in Japan as you would think. Final Fantasy is massive. Hironobu Sakaguchi is a god. So is Nobuo Uematsu, composer of the music for the series. Katsuhiro Otomo – creator of Akira – had an entire exhibition devoted to his life's work displayed in Tokyo a few years back. Besides that, it's hard to say what the 'next big thing' will be. 

I was teaching kindergarten for three years there, and every single kid was obsessed with Yo-Kai Watch. It's hard to explain just how massive this franchise is. Bigger than Pokemon. Bigger than everything, and yet some people in the west have never heard of it. (The anime movie had the highest grossing opening weekend of any Japanese film since at least 2000, making ¥1,628,893,00. That's a big number.) But that's Japan. 

While some things make it out of the country and become massive worldwide, other exports such as Kyary Pamyu Pamyu and strawberry/custard sandwiches are destined to be a Japanese phenomenon. So for these things, best you go and visit the country for yourself. Ganbatte!

Visit Justin's webite: ikimasho.net

30 Comments
MrPSB
23/7/2015 08:46:00 am

Yo-Kai Watch is coming to the west this year on 3DS, and nothing will ever be the same again. It looks amazing.

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Dacanesta
23/7/2015 09:57:15 am

Good article, though I long to meet someone who feels like I do, which is 'IM BLOODY SICK OF IT HERE!'. Been here 3 years myself and have plotted my escape, but yeah, It's had its moments but I need OUT! I can feel some of the negative traits seeping into my skin and have seen too many 'Gero Gero' gaijin who have been here too long and lost their sense of self! Ok, rant over!

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Justin link
23/7/2015 10:02:42 am

Hey Dacanesta - I hear ya, that's why I needed a break after 3 years! It all became too normal and some stuff on a daily basis really started to grind on me. Where were you living? I was Shimokitazawa in Tokyo.

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Qt**luvtokyo
23/7/2015 10:27:31 am

Did you ever ride the brown-skinned curry men?

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Justin link
23/7/2015 10:28:51 am

Here's your answer haha

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=485499944923321&set=t.100003899598350&type=3&theater

Dacanesta
23/7/2015 11:19:16 am

Not far from there! Chitose funabashi, odakyu line few stops up. Shimokita is my fave haunt, mainly club que when something on, and good heavens. Nice Hummel in that pic by the way.
I think Japan is kind of the bomb, as that guy says, but unlike other places I've been, it un-grows on me the more j learn about it. Being judged negatively for being a teacher by girlfriends friends?! Pah!

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Justin link
23/7/2015 11:28:02 am

Yeah, fuck it. I do like teaching so I just say I do it. I wrote this:
http://ikimasho.net/2013/10/13/why-i-love-being-a-kindergarten-teacher-in-japan/

It's funny how so many people feel the need to elaborate on what they do for a living, most of which is bullshit: "Yeah I'm writer, but I teach a bit on the side (Meaning you work full time as a teacher and write 1 article a month.) So many gaijin are embarrassed about their jobs so why the hell do they do it?!

It'll be interesting to see how the new station looks when it's done, shimo has been a bit of a mess for years cos of all that work. Few good punk bars in Shimo, went to Good Heavens myself too, the old one and the new one for some cider. Miss the thrift stores >_<

Justin link
23/7/2015 11:29:29 am

Yeah, fuck it. I do like teaching so I just say I do it. I wrote this cos of people exactly like the ones you mentioned:
http://ikimasho.net/2013/10/13/why-i-love-being-a-kindergarten-teacher-in-japan/

It's funny how so many people feel the need to elaborate on what they do for a living, most of which is bullshit: "Yeah I'm writer, but I teach a bit on the side (Meaning you work full time as a teacher and write 1 article a month.) So many gaijin are embarrassed about their jobs so why the hell do they do it?!

It'll be interesting to see how the new station looks when it's done, shimo has been a bit of a mess for years cos of all that work. Few good punk bars in Shimo, went to Good Heavens myself too, the old one and the new one for some cider. Miss the thrift stores >_<

Setagaya Crew!

George
26/7/2015 11:13:56 pm

Hi Dacanesta, by a peculiar coincidence you're living in the same town as me. Odakyu Line is where it's at!

If you want to grumble about expat things over a chuhai from the Famima next to the station Koban (substitute topic, beverage and venue as preferred) you can ping me on Facebook HERE (de-asterisk the URL first): http://www.f***book.com/simon.g.lucas

That goes for the rest of the Tokyo Digi-posse too. Message-me-do!

Qt**luvjapan
23/7/2015 10:25:50 am

Y'all crazy. Tokyo is bomb.com

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MrDrinks
23/7/2015 11:29:29 am

An excellent article, I want to drink booze on a Tekken 5 machine. I can recreate it in my living room but it's just not the same.

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Hoboerotica
23/7/2015 02:46:35 pm

I lived there for 4 loooong years, i can only sum up the experience as "3rd world country, 1st world money"


The tiresome whacky weirdness doesn't mask the fact that most Japanese (and gaijin) are desperately lonely.

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Lloyd
23/7/2015 03:45:34 pm

What a crazy coincidence. I too returned from Japan after 3 years, although it's definitely going to be somewhere I bounce back and forth from for the rest of my life. The following *may* be a bit self indulgent in length so if you can't be bothered reading it I understand!

My reasons for going to Japan were several:
1) I had studied Japanese as a hobby for a few years stemming from an ill fated period when I was unemployed and went to see Kill Bill at the cinema and during a Japanese monologue just thought "Yeah, I'll learn Japanese!". Bought a text book, looked at it a few times before forgetting about it, then years later met a Japanese lady skateboarding when I was in a rut in my life, thought if she could come to England and experience a foreign culture then surely I could too?
2) I practiced programming in my spare time and looked at programming links and read about games during quiet periods at my soul crushing IT helpdesk position and came across James Kay's "Japanmanship" blog about life as a gaijin game developer and piqued my interest even more.
3) After an ill-advised second attempt at university (I graduated the first time but wanted to iron out my programming skills) I quit after the second year, went back to my soul crushing job and decided it was do or die time after going round in circles - go to Japan for a year for a homestay. I went and stayed with a very cool Japanese family, worked in Eikaiwa and explored Tokyo. Got my visa sponsored after a year, got my own apartment and started looking for games jobs. Got one, jacked in my eikaiwa stuff and started working in the Japanese games industry! Woooo! I worked at Pyramid, who did outsourcing work for clients and one of their projects was the Patapon series for the PSP.

THE REALITY
After starting work at a Japanese company I felt terribly isolated. I don't think I was "outcast", just everything seemed so weird after being in a bit of a work culture bubble as an eikaiwa sensei. My Japanese wasn't terrible by that point and I could get by reading emails but meetings were totally pointless for me (and there were a lot of them) and as my normal schedule totally flipped from my eikaiwa one (from working evenings and weekends to having them off completely) I suddenly had no social life and felt it difficult rediscovering my personal identity after more or less being customer service and teaching with a very polite veneer for the first year or so in Japan.

There were cultural difficulties in many situations at work and some very bizarre decision making and at times total non-understanding of some of the tools used in modern software dev that required me to come in again to work after leaving a couple of times. Thankfully, the president of the company was born and raised in New York so he was super down to Earth and saved my sanity a few times.

As for the social situation, eventually by fluke I found a social scene surrounding the rock and metal bars dotted around Kabukicho. I soon disappeared into a black hole for weekends getting first trains and making a shit load of native and foreign friends, but the problem with having friends that either a) regularly frequent bars and/or b) also work at said bars means that if you try and be less nocturnal you'll find the day time a lonely place as every one else is hungover!

I visited England for the first time in almost 3 years last August and was super super refreshed. I could walk down the street without looking out for bikes. The suburbs were infinitely more spacious. I could talk on the train. I could get decent burgers and ribs. I was spoiled for live music choice. I could freely and easily talk to anyone. I had to come back, so I did.

The perspective I now have regarding work, play, myself, society and other cultures is now infinitely wider than before I went. I'm incredibly glad I went. I even have a love of my life now too. And she LOVES England. AND I have so many stories as well as so many people to visit if I go again.

BTW I lived on Odakyu line, Yomiuriland mae and then near machida. Then near shinjuku.

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Justin link
23/7/2015 04:16:01 pm

Cheers for posting your story man. Yeah I can see me being in and out of Japan for the rest of my life too, for better or for worse. Here's my story: equally longer if you want a read.

http://www.wanderlust.co.uk/magazine/blogs/family-travel/how-my-father-inspired-me-to-travel

For me I knew a guy in Tokyo already who used to know my ex so I adopted all his mates when I arrived. Made the transition easier. I also was adament I only wanted a 9-5 with weekends off, no split shifts or ending 9pm or any of that bollocks.

I too didnt go home for 3 years and was refreshing when I did, made me realise I didnt hate Northern Ireland as much as I used to, though it's still pretty balls.

I don't party so much now, and I'm pretty much milked Tokyo for all its worth culturally so if I do go back next year most likely I'll move to Kansai for a change of scenery. I also lived in Fukuoka for a year, nice spot.

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Justin link
23/7/2015 04:20:41 pm

Also, and I'm not sure why, but Japan gets under your skin and I'm not sure why. I've travelled all over Asia but I still get drawn back to Japan. If I go back next year it'll be my third stint.

Kelvin Green link
23/7/2015 05:25:05 pm

Hang on, hang on, what happened to the pen pal?

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Justin link
24/7/2015 01:55:22 am

Haha. I actually got back in touch with her when I was 22 and moved to Fukuoka for the first time, but god knows now

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iamacrispy
24/7/2015 09:20:48 am

As a man that has lived in Akihabara for the last 3 years (not like in the shops and maid cafes, that would be insane you fool, but in a shoebox a few minutes away) I can totally relate to everything said by everyone.

Part of me has just gotten used to my life in Japan, and it's simply normal now. It's normal that I pass by girls dressed as maids and schoolgirls on the way home from work. It's normal that there's a dodgy 'OL Cafe' and a cat cafe near where I work. And It's normal that when I pass other gaijin I'm not really sure if they're going to give me the old gaijin head nod, or start talking to me, or if I should do anything (what am I supposed to do? Anyone?). It's also weirdly normal that I'm growing to dislike Chinese people almost as much as Japanese people do.

I went back to London for a few days this year and I realised just how much I enjoyed it there (Biffo-meets especially so). But also how it felt like you might get stabbed at any moment. I loved going up north and seeing my folks again, but I also remember how shit and boring it is at home. Part of me dreaded coming back to Tokyo, part of me felt like I have no real home anymore. I've been back a couple of months now and I'm back feeling basically how I have done the last 3 years. Not at home, but also at home.

As different as my (entirely) Japanese co-workers are, they can actually be lots of fun to work with. And I will always recall all the bullshit that I could be going back to if I decided to go back to my office in the UK. I'm not really sure where I would go if I got sick of Japan. Thoughts?

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Lloyd
24/7/2015 04:41:41 pm

What part(s) of London did you feel unsafe in? To me, parts of London like Hackney, Camden and Brixton feel like Disneyland now, and Soho feels less dodgy than Kabukicho!

As for life decisions that depends - what industry do you work in? Or...is there any kind of industry you'd like to transition to?

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iamacrispy
24/7/2015 07:07:15 pm

While I was there we didn't really see 'that side' of London. But I remembered what it was like living in Arnos Grove or Ponders End. Never again. And Jesus fuck, in Central London, the tourists!

Was Soho ever that bad? I just seem to remember there being some good places to eat and that.

I work in the broadcast industry. I love the company I work for but I'm worth a lot more than they pay me. I'd kind of consider moving to Aus where the headquarters is, but then I'd be in Aus. Plus I'm already known as that Pom that moved to Japan.

Justin link
24/7/2015 05:20:48 pm

Haha yeah I could have written exactly what you wrote man. (Apart from living in East Tokyo. West is where it's at!). I too feel like I am in limbo: that I don't know where I belong anymore. That sounds like a very emo thing to say but I think Japan has a way of making life very comfortable to a point that you risk becoming the guy who has lived there 12 years yet is still making 250,000 a month just cos it's easy and no hassle. I hate the Japanese winter, but at least there's a fucking summer. I can't see me living and working in Northern Ireland ever again, yet I know the realities of liviong in Japan long-term. So fuck knows where we will both end up!

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iamacrispy
24/7/2015 07:15:18 pm

Yeah Akihabara is not somewhere I would have necessarily wanted to live. There's zero nightlife here unless you want to get seriously otaku-ed. But where I live is fairly quiet yet is walking distance from Yodobashi and some tasty food, so not too bad overall.

Just got to find a way to get a high paying job and a beach condo in Thailand. Then I'm sorted.

Lloyd
25/7/2015 07:46:08 am

As for me I love the Japanese winters (very dry and little rain, but fuck the lack of central heating in apartments and houses) and hated the summers (waaaay too hot and humid). I agree with the wages thing - I could have been making almost twice the wage I was getting paid for the same kind of position in England or the US.

Lloyd
25/7/2015 07:59:02 am

I couldn't reply to the bottom post, so this is probably gonna appear out of order. Oh well. Soho used to be pretty bad for getting approached by sketchy dudes asking me if I was looking for women or drugs. Kabukicho of course has the aggressive touts but once you met them a few times they know you're going to the metal bars and not going to any titty bars, and in the future you just exchange hellos and questions about how business is going.

I don't know much about how Oz is to live, so can't comment, but if you'd like to go there don't care about what people think about you! Do it! Life is too short to give a fuck. Good luck!

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Dacanesta
24/7/2015 10:24:23 pm

This 'limbo' is what's so obviously prevalent. That, and as someone said, the loneliness. You can smell it on people. The thing is, our friends (real ones) make up a huge chunk of who we are....our humour, interests.....and I feel like my personality is being sapped away. Then I have a natter on facebook and realise I'm the same person, it's just I have to reign myself in here......in many ways. I like to kind of pretend I'm 'daft', but the japanese don't get the joke and think 'why, he's a silly sausage isn't he!'. So I've resorted to just being straight......which is sad.
The loneliness seems to stem from the size of tokyo. You meet someone you can actually relate to, and they live 40 mins away by train. Can you be arsed to pop around? Can you nelly. When I lived in Thailand, all the foreigners lived in the same district , my co teachers in the same complex, so that was never a problem.
Anyway, to her limbo people......really, be careful! My advice for what it's worh is that my plan was always to travel around a bit and settle in my favourite place.....I think there are many here who have only really lived at home and in Japan, so they think theres just the choice between the 2. It isn't. If you do that then yes, it's safer and crazier here so you might stay, but here's a whole world out there without loneliness that is still exciting! Depends what you want. I like me some open space and magical scenery and so I'm off back to New Zealand, by far my favourite place in the world. I could feel other places that I love but then it would seem like name dropping. But there are other places, and honestly......Japan is at the bottom for me! That doesn't mean I hate it, though I do sometimes, but it's at the bottom. Or maybe a little above Korea, I still haven't decided yet. It's more exciting, but Koreans were more accepting of differences.
And now, in note form, why I don't like it here!:
Too hot in summer! Always on trains. Always late because of trains. Politeness, but often it's a front. Social circles and how they can't be broken into. Crazy neighbours who complain about thungs such as 'he has a pretty solar light on his balcony, but when it goes red (it also went blue and green) it looks like a video camera and we are scared he is filming us'. Being judged from your university/job/income, not from chat (head over heart, which applies to everything here). Rules are rules. Weird gaijin (last weekend I was stopped by an American guy who made fun of the fact my bag straps were on both shoulders as opposed to just one which looks cooler. He was wearing a naff polo shirt TUCKED IN to khaki shorts and a baseball cap. I rest my case). Zero common sense. Complicated doesn't mean organised. Soulless countryside and bland, uncared for coastal areas (oooh! Harsh one there!). Taiji. Acceptance of bad things with no fight to complain about what is right. Bizarre social orders and sexism, such as my gf nurse has to pour drinks for the doctors when hey go out, of which she has no say in he matter....docs wanna go out, nurses must join! Oh, and they sometimes don't let her have her holidays that were planned 'coz we need you so you can't'. Being whistled at by police for crossing the road when it's on red despite nothing being there and the ability to think for myself. Mt Fuji.
Positives! Sushi, mad bars, golden gai area, younger generation seem to be wising up, ski resorts, beer available any time, and the footy team and league I play in/for. And a new, genuine, massive respect for england, despite the many flaws there too.
Anyway.....digitiser fan club Tokyo......UNITE!

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Lloyd
25/7/2015 08:11:38 am

Ditto on the encountering other weird ex-pats front. Eikaiwa was jam packed with them. Nakano Broadway seems to be crawling with them too. I also sympathize with the "Rules are Rules" thinking. For example, I've been skateboarding since I was 15 and not gonna stop anytime soon (I'm 33 now) and I went to Hachioji for their out of town skatepark. The skatepark is part of a big sports area and on the top of a hill. The tarmac on the paths leading back down to the car park is smooth, which is a rarity in Japan. I guess you can see where I'm going with this.

At the end of the day when it's getting dark the carpark is empty, and I need to go home, so of course I start skating down the hill, only to see one of the staff in the skatepark doing the big batsu / X sign gesturing me to stop. Really? I just carried on. I just cant believe everyone is so obedient. Had some dude telling me about my "manners" when I was skating in the street , even though I got off my board to let people past, didn't get in anyone's way every time etc but he was a complete numpty. He shot me the dirtiest looks when I was carrying my board and not even skating before he spoke to me. Knob school.

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Lloyd
25/7/2015 08:12:54 am

A lot of interesting stuff arising here, if anyone would like to go into a deeper chat about it or make introductions my username on facebook is "Lloydy Lloyd" and my profile pic is the scary pikachu cosplay from an article on here.

Cheers!

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Dacanesta
27/7/2015 07:06:00 pm

Okie dokie, hello everybody!
I couldn't find you Lloyd, pikachu profile pic or not!
Found another who posted here though.
Sorry again for my 'rant', I honestly just wanted to get it out, which obviously helps us gaijin. No one to vent to here! Feel better already.
LORD it's hot at the moment. Complain!
Anyway, I'm on Facebook James Adam cane if anyone wants to say hello.
If anyone likes rock and indie music, particularly British, then definitely write to me coz I have a night to tell you a out. It I won't do it here coz it'll be, like, advertising and stuff.
Other interests are footy, electronic music, and a combination of the 2.
By the way, in Japan's defence, I've never spent so much time in 1 place so maybe if I stayed in Thailand for that long then I'd have had enough. It's like the girl who you like for quirky reasons and then hose reasons are why you DONT like her later on. I'm well and truly past the 'oh look! Fruity sandwiches!' Phase man. That's not a dog by the way! Anyhow, say hello if you want and bye bye!

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Justin link
28/7/2015 03:27:52 am

No sweat Decanesta. I like how we've turned the Digi comments section into an expat message board. Don't complain about the heat. It's 15 degrees and raining in Belfast at the minute - but I'm heading back to SE Asia next month thank god.

Im not in Tokyo at the minute but is this Indie night anything to do with Entrada? I know Elliot from the band.

Also, if you like the weirder side of electronic music (Aphex Twin etc) check the YouTube Sessions series I do on my site.

http://ikimasho.net/category/youtube-sessions/

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Justin link
28/7/2015 03:29:22 am

Ahaha you know Birtles. Tell him hello from me if you see him.

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